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Andries Stockenstrom - Articles
The Frans Karoo Taste: Graaff-Reinet
The oasis that is the Andries Stockenström comes as more than a
surprise. The gigantic house with its wide, yellowwood plank floors gives
on to a spacious stoep and a garden crammed with fruit trees. A delicious
smell of rich wine sauces, herbs and fruity pud wafts through the house.
Beatrice won the Full Service Guesthouse Award this year for her
14-seater restaurant and five guest rooms. It's hardly believable that
this (Paris) Ritz-trained, qualified cordon bleu chef would come to hang
her hat in a town 700km from Johannesburg and make a reputation which
reaches right into France and Belgium.
Frans Karoo is the way she describes her food - top-class local
ingredients treated lovingly and presented with true French flair. Barnard
doesn't mince words either. She's a perfectionist who sneers at cooks who
can't tell the difference between a galantine and a ballotine. 16 fig
trees, apricots, lemon, plum and orange trees and a splendid vegetable
garden supply the fresh ingredients of her picture-perfect salads and
spectacular desserts, such as figs with rum and creme fraîche.
Citrus sauces are a foil for the rich, dark meats such as loin of kudu,
ostrich fillet and swartwildebees.
Her passion for fresh food, authentic French taste and local
ingredients, such as the incomparable Karoo lamb, has made her a legend
among serious eaters. Her establishment is featured in several French and
Belgian tourist guides and one Frenchman made the 700km journey from
Johannesburg to eat at her table, returning the next day. "They know how
to eat," she says.
His breakfast would have been figs and apricots or a bowl of
prunes...yeah, poached in port and cloves. An omelette would have included
garlic and fresh herbs, or at special request, a succulent bit of kudu
liver pâté. "My food is for the strong of heart," she explains.
One guest remarked that no matter how wonderfully clean the Karoo air,
it was a pleasure to enter a restaurant that has the perfume of Paris.
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