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Schulphoek article:
Wine
Magazine editor, Fiona McDonald writes ….
What is it with me and baths?
I’ve always admitted to being a water baby but the last time I
did a guesthouse review, my defining moment occurred over strawberries in
the bath. And the same thing
happened at Schulphoek Guesthouse in Sandbaai, a seaside haven two
kilometres outside Hermanus. I’d
arrived back after an early morning cycle, all hot and sweaty, and
discovered that the bath in my suite boasted seven hydro-massage jets!
Until then I hadn’t noticed – I’d been more interested in the
massage shower that I put to good use before retiring the night before.
With two jets under my tired calves and one positioned perfectly in
the small of my back, I was in heaven!
The fact that a towelling covered pillow was already perfectly
positioned on the edge of the bath indicates the length to which Petro and
Mannes van Zyl go to ensure guest’s comfort.
If breakfast hadn’t been waiting, I’d have wallowed for hours
… it had all started the day before when Petro welcomed me to the
four-year-old establishment that started life as a modest seaside cottage
that owners Wehrner and Janet Gutstadt used to hire when visiting family
in Hermanus. Eventually they
bought the seafront property and set about renovating it extensively.
Like Topsy, it grew … and grew, all under the able stewardship of
the van Zyl’s. The
renaissance from seaside cottage to 5 star-graded guesthouse took four
years. ‘We’re so happy
here,” Petro admits. “Our
guests almost become friends – and they in turn recommend us to their
friends and colleagues.” Word-of-mouth
had prompted fellow guests Patrick and Caroline of Ireland to spend a week
there, and had also drawn ex-Liberty and JSE supreme Roy Andersen, wife
Wendy and son Mike. Patrick
and Caroline were looking forward to exploring the area, the walks at
Fernkloof nature reserve, golf at any number of local courses, a visit to
Stanford with a river cruise thrown in and maybe even a visit to the
Birkenhead brewery, fishing, wine tasting at the Walker Bay wineries …
For adrenaline junkies, there’s shark cage diving, sea kayaking,
even dune boarding. No fear of
boredom setting in. We all got
acquainted over a pot of afternoon tea, Petro and Mannes doing the
introductions as well as we all sat drinking in the sea view.
The polite chitchat shifted into friendly conversation over
pre-dinner drinks and by the time we were all seated at the long table, we
were friends dining together – and that’s the way it felt all weekend.
For me that was the biggest charm of Schulphoek.
So often on weekends such as these everyone rigidly maintains their
interpersonal boundaries, eating at separate tables, sitting apart, not
interacting, merely nodding and smiling politely at one another.
“We love to interact with our guests – and get them interacting
with one another, because everyone has a story to tell and is interesting
in their own way. But if they
want privacy or to be alone, we respect that too,” says Mannes.
Mannes was installing a newly imported kitchen range – the
Lacanche from
France
(which Wehrner Gutstadt incidentally has the agency for …) which would
make any wannabe cook drool. Gas
hob, simmer plate, cast-iron grill, huge oven, special plate warmer
section, storage space … I want one!
But he took time out to show me the baby – the 4000-bottle wine
cellar. Like many cellars, it
just isn’t big enough, stocked as it is with multiple vintages of
Meerlust, Bourchard Finlayson, Mischa, Zandvliet,
Springfield
and Viljoensdrift. Plans are
afoot to move the cellar closer to the kitchen and expand its capacity to
a ‘flexible’ 7500 bottles … flexible to 10 000 Mannes assures me.
Naturally the winelist is extensive, but guests love going to the
cellar and browsing before selecting a wine (all very reasonably prices)
for dinner. I knew freshness
was beyond question at Schulphoek when I saw chef Bertina Engelbrecht
strolling past my room, heading for the French-styled potager near the
swimming pool. She came back
armed with spinach, herbs and salad leaves galore.
The potager is a cook’s dream – herbs, onions, spinach,
beetroot, carrots, tomatoes and more, all organically grown.
Mannes has even done his thing for alien invaders by cutting down
Port Jackson stems to made woven screens for each of the vegetable beds.
Your first night’s stay includes a complimentary four-course
dinner – and it’s worth the stay for the food alone.
Bertina trained with the Protea hotel group, but also worked at
Disney in
Florida
before returning to
South
Africa
.
Caramelised pears and blue cheese on a bed of salad leaves was
followed by two grilled prawns on a lemongrass skewer, with peppery rocket
leaves and herbed butter. For
the main course, an aubergine moussaka accompanied a kudu loin crusted
with a spicy harissa paste. Rounding
it all off was lightly cooked and buttered spinach.
Mischa Shiraz, a fruit-forward wine, made a sublime match with the
spicy food. Should you want
anything else, such as a vegetarian or non-meat meal, It’s not a
problem. I couldn’t do the
dessert of brandied chocolate mousse with
Belgium
truffles justice. After a
final cup of delicious Illy coffee, I headed off to bed.
So what about the suites? All
eight are superbly appointed and there’s a range of options from double
to twin beds – some long enough to accommodated a Western Indian fast
bowler! The only thing likely
to disturb your sleep is the sound of waves breaking on the shore or
early-morning birdsong. For me
it’s the small touches that count – the little candles artfully
arranged at the edge of the bath for those aquatic contemplative moments,
his and hers basins, appointed with top brand soaps.
Breakfasts are buffet style with eggs cooked to order.
Bertina’s specials included scrambled eggs, smoked salmon and
potato rosti or a smoked Springbok omelette.
Schulphoek is incredible relaxing.
If you want to sit in front of the panoramic lounge/dining area
windows, reading a newspaper or just enjoying the views, you can.
If you want to snooze beside the pool, the loungers are comfortable
– and there’s a 5-person Jacuzzi.
Feeling in need of a bit of exercise?
An exercise bike is provided …You’ll leave Schulphoek feeling
laidback ad refreshed…
Wine Magazine April 2004 Escape Route
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