Accommodation in South Africa, Mozambique ,Zambia, Botswana and Namibia

Schulphoek article: 

Wine Magazine editor, Fiona McDonald writes ….  

What is it with me and baths?  I’ve always admitted to being a water baby but the last time I did a guesthouse review, my defining moment occurred over strawberries in the bath.  And the same thing happened at Schulphoek Guesthouse in Sandbaai, a seaside haven two kilometres outside Hermanus.  I’d arrived back after an early morning cycle, all hot and sweaty, and discovered that the bath in my suite boasted seven hydro-massage jets!  Until then I hadn’t noticed – I’d been more interested in the massage shower that I put to good use before retiring the night before.  With two jets under my tired calves and one positioned perfectly in the small of my back, I was in heaven!  The fact that a towelling covered pillow was already perfectly positioned on the edge of the bath indicates the length to which Petro and Mannes van Zyl go to ensure guest’s comfort.  If breakfast hadn’t been waiting, I’d have wallowed for hours … it had all started the day before when Petro welcomed me to the four-year-old establishment that started life as a modest seaside cottage that owners Wehrner and Janet Gutstadt used to hire when visiting family in Hermanus.  Eventually they bought the seafront property and set about renovating it extensively.  Like Topsy, it grew … and grew, all under the able stewardship of the van Zyl’s.  The renaissance from seaside cottage to 5 star-graded guesthouse took four years.  ‘We’re so happy here,” Petro admits.  “Our guests almost become friends – and they in turn recommend us to their friends and colleagues.”  Word-of-mouth had prompted fellow guests Patrick and Caroline of Ireland to spend a week there, and had also drawn ex-Liberty and JSE supreme Roy Andersen, wife Wendy and son Mike.  Patrick and Caroline were looking forward to exploring the area, the walks at Fernkloof nature reserve, golf at any number of local courses, a visit to Stanford with a river cruise thrown in and maybe even a visit to the Birkenhead brewery, fishing, wine tasting at the Walker Bay wineries …  For adrenaline junkies, there’s shark cage diving, sea kayaking, even dune boarding.  No fear of boredom setting in.  We all got acquainted over a pot of afternoon tea, Petro and Mannes doing the introductions as well as we all sat drinking in the sea view.  The polite chitchat shifted into friendly conversation over pre-dinner drinks and by the time we were all seated at the long table, we were friends dining together – and that’s the way it felt all weekend.  For me that was the biggest charm of Schulphoek.  So often on weekends such as these everyone rigidly maintains their interpersonal boundaries, eating at separate tables, sitting apart, not interacting, merely nodding and smiling politely at one another.  “We love to interact with our guests – and get them interacting with one another, because everyone has a story to tell and is interesting in their own way.  But if they want privacy or to be alone, we respect that too,” says Mannes.  Mannes was installing a newly imported kitchen range – the Lacanche from France (which Wehrner Gutstadt incidentally has the agency for …) which would make any wannabe cook drool.  Gas hob, simmer plate, cast-iron grill, huge oven, special plate warmer section, storage space … I want one!  But he took time out to show me the baby – the 4000-bottle wine cellar.  Like many cellars, it just isn’t big enough, stocked as it is with multiple vintages of Meerlust, Bourchard Finlayson, Mischa, Zandvliet, Springfield and Viljoensdrift.  Plans are afoot to move the cellar closer to the kitchen and expand its capacity to a ‘flexible’ 7500 bottles … flexible to 10 000 Mannes assures me.  Naturally the winelist is extensive, but guests love going to the cellar and browsing before selecting a wine (all very reasonably prices) for dinner.  I knew freshness was beyond question at Schulphoek when I saw chef Bertina Engelbrecht strolling past my room, heading for the French-styled potager near the swimming pool.  She came back armed with spinach, herbs and salad leaves galore.  The potager is a cook’s dream – herbs, onions, spinach, beetroot, carrots, tomatoes and more, all organically grown.  Mannes has even done his thing for alien invaders by cutting down Port Jackson stems to made woven screens for each of the vegetable beds.  Your first night’s stay includes a complimentary four-course dinner – and it’s worth the stay for the food alone.  Bertina trained with the Protea hotel group, but also worked at Disney in Florida before returning to South Africa .  Caramelised pears and blue cheese on a bed of salad leaves was followed by two grilled prawns on a lemongrass skewer, with peppery rocket leaves and herbed butter.  For the main course, an aubergine moussaka accompanied a kudu loin crusted with a spicy harissa paste.  Rounding it all off was lightly cooked and buttered spinach.  Mischa Shiraz, a fruit-forward wine, made a sublime match with the spicy food.  Should you want anything else, such as a vegetarian or non-meat meal, It’s not a problem.  I couldn’t do the dessert of brandied chocolate mousse with Belgium truffles justice.  After a final cup of delicious Illy coffee, I headed off to bed.  So what about the suites?  All eight are superbly appointed and there’s a range of options from double to twin beds – some long enough to accommodated a Western Indian fast bowler!  The only thing likely to disturb your sleep is the sound of waves breaking on the shore or early-morning birdsong.  For me it’s the small touches that count – the little candles artfully arranged at the edge of the bath for those aquatic contemplative moments, his and hers basins, appointed with top brand soaps.  Breakfasts are buffet style with eggs cooked to order.  Bertina’s specials included scrambled eggs, smoked salmon and potato rosti or a smoked Springbok omelette.  Schulphoek is incredible relaxing.  If you want to sit in front of the panoramic lounge/dining area windows, reading a newspaper or just enjoying the views, you can.  If you want to snooze beside the pool, the loungers are comfortable – and there’s a 5-person Jacuzzi.  Feeling in need of a bit of exercise?  An exercise bike is provided …You’ll leave Schulphoek feeling laidback ad refreshed…

Wine Magazine April 2004 Escape Route

 

 

 

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